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Goofy or Natural« on: August 23 2007 23:08:00 »
It seems to me lately i 've been seeing goofys being a lot more artistic in their surfing style. I checked Burleigh early in the week with some good sets and it seemed the Goofys were geting more waves and riding with a lot more style than the naturals.
I checked Byron outside the public pool on Thursday and it seemed a goofy was a lot more impressive with style and I even gave him an award of a few Nudie Juices i'd scored.
( He was stoked)
I think of Wayne Lynch and his unique attitude and personal makeup.
I carn't forget Micheal Peterson ( natural) though and would consider him to have been a virtuoso.
Is it something to do with the left side of the brain.
I wonder if there have been any famous switch foots.
RE: Goofy or Natural« Reply #1 on: August 26 2007 19:08:00 »
So Micheal Peterson.
Some people reckon he was a real arsehole and others tell me he was a real nice guy.
A guy today put him right down who knew him but he said he surfed unreal.
I had times when i've surfed unreal but I wasn't enjoying it.
Had a friend go that"s the best i've ever seen you surf.
I much prefer to go left and seem to enjoy it more and i'm a natural.
RE: Goofy or Natural« Reply #2 on: August 27 2007 04:08:00 »
Talking to yourself again, OZ? Kinda lonely, isn't it. It's o.k. to talk to yourself as long as you don't answer back. (Start doing that and you might need to check with the head Doc.)
Just messing with you, man. You know I love you, goofy or not.
RE: Goofy or Natural« Reply #3 on: August 27 2007 17:08:00 »
Yeah man it's good to realise.
I was looking back to see what I never used to be.
Perhaps it's like real beginers Zen.
Knowing you aren't the next second.
Surfing heavy waves for real can give one the God type realisation. Good thing to try to be even on small waves as it's when i've been hurt the most.