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local at heart« on: August 30 2009 14:08:00 »
life out of the water does not come easy for me,i live very much in the present,the place most of you want to be. when the ocean is going off and im not in it i become uncomfortable in my skin,i have to feel it,i am connected to the sensation of surfing,the visual experience of being the wave,i begin to feel the wave from the shore,im in tune.if you watch me you can see my body prepare.i deffinately see life diffrent than most,i am as alive as one can be in the thrill of the ocean,and struggle for air out of it.and i am not a local,so next time you see me in the lineup,or headed for the lineup,please just let me surf,for once i find the true meaning of peace i will pass it on.See you in the lineup
RE: local at heart« Reply #1 on: August 31 2009 13:08:00 »
wow you have the fever bad!