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Topic: local at heart
Views: 1226 Replies: 3
Topic: local at heart
Views: 1226 Replies: 3

By:

eric

Posted in

United States of America United States of America

 

 

local at heart

life out of the water does not come easy for me,i live very much in the present,the place most of you want to be. when the ocean is going off and im not in it i become uncomfortable in my skin,i have to feel it,i am connected to the sensation of surfing,the visual experience of being the wave,i begin to feel the wave from the shore,im in tune.if you watch me you can see my body prepare.i deffinately see life diffrent than most,i am as alive as one can be in the thrill of the ocean,and struggle for air out of it.and i am not a local,so next time you see me in the lineup,or headed for the lineup,please just let me surf,for once i find the true meaning of peace i will pass it on.See you in the lineup



By:

R.I. rick

RE: local at heart

wow you have the fever bad!

By:

allan

RE: local at heart

yeah I agree.. Im a local of fucking sf zoo too



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